Ever thought about island hopping and kayaking in costal Sweden? Keep thinking, it’s highly recommendable, read more for Zo’s experience in Bohuslän, on the West Coast of Sweden.

Having had a small sabbatical in the gorgeously warm Italy last year, I was on the hunt for an adventure holiday. I searching for a solution with my other half, which offered us some challenges, nature and a potential respite from the sun for his ginger self. We mulled over surfing, deciding it was, well, hot, Iceland (the days are just too long for goldilocks), and eventually stumbled upon kayaking in Sweden. 

It has long since been on the bucket list to canoe in the Scandinavian fjords but it felt a little like a pipe dream. My boyfriend, who is very outdoorsy, struggles to maintain patience in mixed-ability tour groups and it has been an area of the world we had always written off as eye-wateringly expensive. The self-guided experience in Bohuslän seemed too good to be true; good value and totally independent. It was a no-brainer. 

How to book

We booked a tour via nature travels starting from a small town called Gustafsberg, incidentally the oldest seaside resort in Sweden, around an hour from Gothenburg. The Swedish part of the organisation, Upplevelsbolaget, runs out of a huge traditional wooden barn, with climbing walls and yoga studios to accompany their paddling tours. 

We received a full brief at the barn, as well as an excellent coffee, where we went through the route as well as any potential hazards and some nice spots to camp. 

Kayaking experience needed

I kayaked a lot as a teenager, which meant I was confident in the boat, with my roll rescue technique, and able to handle a few waves. However, it had been years since I was in a kayak and I hadn’t really undertaken such a journey as an adult, where I was required to be in charge. As a result, we opted for the simpler route that didn’t encounter as much rough sea water as the longer route. The tour did offer a one-day induction course for novices and was open to beginners, which gave me a little more confidence in our abilities. 

The route 

Having flown into Gothenburg, we spent a quick weekend exploring before we headed up north to reach the remote town of Gustafsberg. It was relatively simple via public transport on a train and bus although Sunday timings were infinitely more spaced out. 

We were given a full brief on a large and smaller map at the base in Gustafsberg. They talked us through our 5-day route, which took us from the forested channels of the mainland, past various towns on the island of Orüst and eventually all the way to the coast, which led straight out onto the north sea. Whilst there was no set itinerary for each day, we had general goals in mind to be able to reach the end point of Rönnäng, on the island of Tjörn, on the final day.

What happened, in reality, was that the first two days took a bit of time to get our arms in swing and to get used to the kayaks and the gear. They ended up being much shorter and we paddled around 14km for around 5 hours each day. Knowing we needed to push on to get to the final destination, we then paddled between 20-25 km for the following three days. Luckily the wind gave us a boost for the last stretch of the journey!

Safety considerations

As it is a coastal area that has virtually no tide, there were no huge threats of being blown back to Scotland. At times the wind caused choppiness in the water, but nothing too major that put us at capsizing risk. We consistently checked wind forecasts to ensure it would remain calm. Whilst the channels of water we were paddling in are shared with various yachts, ferries and even some shipping tankers, we made sure to remain safe by staying as close to the coastline as possible, and keeping exposed crossings speedy and to a minimal distance. 

Wild camping on the archipelago

There is freedom to roam in the region, which means that it was totally acceptable to pull up at any island that seemed to have a good beach. Most of the islands in the archipelago are uninhabited and, as we discovered, tiny lumps of rock, jutting out of the sea. Not all were suitable for camping due to the cliff faces or nature reserves, but we were given a few points to look out for. 

The freedom of pitching anywhere was very liberating, as was the seclusion of being totally alone on an island. We could often see other houses, moored yachts or the mainland, but we were mostly entirely alone. We showered in the small pools by our campsite and cooked next to the sea. I was surprised by the quality of sleep I managed after 8 hours of paddling and the cleanliness of washing purely in salt water for 5 days!

Summer days meant for sunny weather

We travelled in August and were exceptionally lucky with the weather. Whilst it was cloudy most mornings, it was glorious sunshine in the afternoons and into the evenings. There was a joke made about checking into a hostel without judgement, which I think may certainly have been on the cards if straight rain was forecast for 5 days! 

Whilst the water was pleasant, we still kayaked in dry cags (specialised jackets for kayaking) and neoprene gloves most days. In the evenings, it was light leggings and a fleece, much like the weather from where we hail in the north of England. 

The conditions also meant that we could happily manage the wind speeds, sea choppiness and any potential incidents that would leave us in the water as it would be relatively safe. We were told that paddling in this region outside of the summer months does take more gear and experience. 

The Nutshell

Overall the adventure was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The views are like nothing I’ve ever seen before and the challenge of kayaking and camping for 5 days was good for the soul. I would highly recommend the adventure for anyone who is looking for something a little different, or in need of something to push themselves. We were generally quite fit and had some kayaking experience, but most of the journey could’ve been acceptably managed by beginners who were prepared to be a bit more courageous. 

Have you done any similar multi-day adventures in Scandinavia or elsewhere in the world? Get in touch to let us know, we’d love to hear about it!